Now that the headstock template shape is perfect, the next step is to glue it in place on the body. I used 4-40 epoxy to glue the template in place. The overkill is with the headstock template. If I were really worried about the headstock, I'd go to 3-40 instead. The purpose of the headstock template isn't to make the headstock hollow, it's to float it, making the body have a thicker neck over it. You'll still have to sand the headstock down quite a bit to get it smooth, but it serves its purpose here as a float. I've seen some builders sink the fretboard with the headstock template attached. Even though the headstock is fairly thick, the neck will just sink down all by itself. So, I've ended up with no floating headstock but with a pretty bass.
post final cut Now the final stage is to remove the headstock template. It's likely that you'll need to sand the headstock while the glue is still damp. I use a sander (OSS) to get the wood smooth and then I use a belt sander to smooth it off, especially around the edges.
Bar spacing is an easy one. I'll cut the 7th fret first so that the deadwood is in the way of the first fret and it's playable. I'll use a rabbet bit on the router and then round down the rest of the depth. I'll clamp the 7th fret to the fence and then clap off the rest. I get closer to facing height than the protective, hopelessly imprecise and inefficient way of just eyeballing it. Here's the fretboard in the frame. The first fret is set in the slot, the others are squared off by the fence. d2c66b5586